Pasta Amatriciana

2 tablespoons olive oil
8 ounces jowl bacon, sliced into small squares
1 medium red onion, finely diced
4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
2 teaspoons tomato paste
1 small fresh red chile or ¼ tsp red pepper flakes
4 cups chopped heirloom tomatoes
1 pound noodles, spaghetti or orrecchietti
1 pound ricotta


Place a wide sauté pan or skillet over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil and jowl bacon and cook to render fat, stirring frequently with wooden spoon.
When the bacon begins to color after several minutes, add the onion and garlic. Continue cooking over medium-high heat, stirring to develop even browning.
After a few minutes the bacon will crisp and a brown residue will begin to form on the bottom of the pan. At this point add the tomato paste, chile and chopped tomatoes (with their juices).
Stir with a wooden spoon, scraping up the brown bits in the bottom of the pan. Lower the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens and turns brick red. Season.
Cook the pasta in plenty of boiling, salted water until al dente. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the pasta water. Add the pasta to the sauce and toss over medium heat until the pasta is coated well, adding small amounts of the cooking water as needed to form a nice silky sauce.
Serve the pasta topped with cheese and chopped fresh herbs, if desired.